When it comes to ingredients and the training of her kitchen crew, owner-chef Buncharas is uncompromising - and it shows. Signature dishes of Chinese-inspired spicy crab and traditional Thai shrimp paste based soup exemplify her spirit of wanderlust and nostalgia; the restaurant’s namesake dessert of fried tofu dusted with sweet powder - found nowhere else - testifies to her inventiveness. We recommend dining on the terrace of this redecorated vintage home.