Overview

Kitchen Paradiso Overview

French and Italian traditions predominate here, although there are also chances to sample some dishes from those other Mediterranean regions that are less well represented on the Bangkok scene. Duck confit is a French classic, but a starter of tabbouleh (bulgur wheat salad with parsley) is more redolent of Lebanon, while the combination of ginger and lemon in carrot soup hints at North African cuisines. From the main courses, chicken casserole is heady with the orangey scent of Spain. Other entrees are less assured: the wine sauce in beef daube is a little oversweet; sea bass with rosemary is tasty, but lukewarm. Quality control reasserts itself when the desserts arrive. Poached apricots and fresh honeycomb with yoghurt artfully balances sweet and sour. Summer pudding is bursting with berry and currant flavours, although surely this quintessentially English recipe was born far from the Mediterranean.

Highlight